Table of Contents:

• Introduction

• Location 1: Lei Yue Mun

• Location 2: Tai Kok Tsui

• Location 3: To Kwa Wan

• Location 4: Tsuen Wan

• Location 5: Tai O

• Location 6: Wah Fu Estate, Pok Fu Lam

• Location 7: Wong Tai Sin

• Location 8: North Point

• Location 9: Jordan

Introduction

Not everyone is looking for the most popular, most photographed locations in Hong Kong to do street photography. In most cases, street photographers are actually looking for unique moments in more hidden locations that can’t be replicated elsewhere. Whilst that often requires a mix of multiple factors - preparation, composition, lighting, sheer luck - you can increase your chances of getting something a bit different by going to lesser explored locations. Not only are you likely to encounter less tourists, you’ll also be in a more local environment conducive to the best elements of street photography - unplanned moments and genuine interactions that tell an interesting story or show an intriguing instance from everyday life.

For those of you that want to get off the beaten track and avoid some of the more touristy destinations, I’ve compiled a list of Hong Kong’s street photography hidden gems. Head to one of these places and you’re more likely to find a greater level of cultural immersion than you will in places advertised on popular tourist websites. Without further ado, let’s dive in.

Location 1: Lei Yue Mun

Location on Google Maps:

Known primarily as a fish market, Lei Yue Mun is actually a buzzing hub of activity, with many other attractions for both photographers and non-photographers to visit. As it’s situated slightly out of the way of other areas (see the map), Lei Yue Mun isn’t really a fully fledged tourist destination and remains more of a dining attraction for those that want to try some of HK’s finest seafood restaurants. This means that it’s more hidden away and you’ll be able to get some great images of the local stalls, fruit stands, restaurants and temples, as well as all of the people that rush back and forth navigating the narrow streets of the market. Once you enter Lei Yue Mun village (after the big Hoi Pang Seafood sign), the pathways are a bit restrictive - I’d recommend using a 24-70mm F2.8 lens to give you the variety and option to change focal length should you need to. 

Things to look out for:

• Fish tanks and sources of light from the tanks

• Store owners selling product, including fish and produce

• The basketball court with neon signs

• People eating in restaurants illuminated by the lights

• Cats and dogs in the shops

• Local families eating together

Location 2: Tai Kok Tsui

Location on Google Maps:

Located to the west of Mong Kok, Tai Kok Tsui is less well known and therefore classified as a hidden gem for Hong Kong photography. You can reach it by exiting from Mongkok station (exit C4) and continuing down Argyle street. You’ll have to cross the road on an overpass but it should only take you 10 minutes to get there. Once you arrive, you’ll be in a more local environment, with some towering apartment buildings, good signage, market stalls and car shops that will offer more than just the regular street scenes you’d get in busier areas like Mong Kok. I’d allow for around an hour here to walk around and get familiar with a more local Hong Kong neighbourhood - be sure to check out some of the stores, but be wary of people not wanting to have their photo taken.

Things to look out for:

• The infamous chicken stall (or one of), where you can see chickens being ‘prepared’

• Fruit stalls with red lights

• Tall, colourful buildings that show the density and compactness of Hong Kong

Location 3: To Kwa Wan

Location on Google Maps:

Best for a weekday, To Kwa Wan is home to a vast number of auto shops and garages that line both sides of the road. You can use a variety of lenses for different effects - wide if you want some context to the shots, zoom if you’d like to get some more detail and compression in your images. I’d recommend just walking back and forth a couple of times, allowing you to potentially capture anything you might miss on the first round. There are also some more places to shoot along the main road if you do need a break from all the car parts. To Kwa Wan is definitely one of my favourite places a secret photography location. The fact that it’s busier during weekdays means that you’ll avoid any weekend rushes (not that there are many tourists in this area) and be able to capture an authentic side of Hong Kong.

Things to look out for:

• Car shops and mechanics

• Taxi drivers resting or washing their cars

• Interesting people repairing things on the roadside

Location 4: Tsuen Wan

Location on Google Maps:

This next location is less of a hidden gem and more of a harder to reach one. It’s less touristy because it takes longer to get to, but if you have 30 mins traveling time to spare, Tsuen Wan is an amazing location for night time street photography. There are an abundance of neon lights of different colors, local people and stalls everywhere and a fair few rooftops if you’d like to get some different angles. I’d also recommend Tsuen Wan for rainy nights for this reason - people with umbrellas look particularly good under the glowing neon lights here. When you arrive in Tsuen Wan you can exit out of pretty much any exit as long as you head towards Market Street and Chuen Lung Street - also allow for an evening here to make the best of the area and the remaining neon lights.

Things to look out for:

• Neons, neons, neons

• Red buses

• Old men sitting in the park (with neons!)

• Local restaurants and outdoor eating areas

• Reflections (when it’s raining)

• More neons!

Location 5: Tai O

Location on Google Maps:

Even more out the way than Tsuen Wan, Tai O is a small fishing village about 50 minutes away from the centre of Hong Kong. It can get quite crowded on weekends but still remains a less well known area for street photography. If you head there in the morning you can spend the entire day there, walking through the narrow streets and capturing some incredible photos of the houses on stilts and their inhabitants. Be careful that the bus on the way back can get quite busy and you may need to queue or book a cab which can be quite an expensive alternative.

Things to look out for:

• Good compositions with the narrow streets

• Local shops selling produce

• Signs hanging over the main road

• Houses on stilts

Location 6: Wah Fu Estate, Pok Fu Lam

Location on Google Maps:

One of my favourite hidden places for street photography, Wah Fu estate is a cluster of building blocks near Waterfall Bay, Pok Fu Lam. According to recent construction reports, this entire area will be demolished in 2025 with the majority of old style buildings being replaced with more modern public housing. For photographers, that means that we have a couple of years to capture the iconic moments and ways of life that happen here before it’s too late. I’d recommend heading here during the day to snap some shots under more contrasty light - you can spend a couple of hours walking around, dipping into the buildings, and walking the stairs around the estate to see what takes your fancy. I’ll be submitting some more of my photos from this place on my Instagram - be sure to follow me for updates.

Things to look out for:

• Contrasty shots with the light and shadow in between the gaps of the buildings

• Everyday objects that showcase daily life - e.g. mops, buckets, umbrellas, sheets

• The overpass with the big hole - usually where a lot of laundry is hung

• People sitting outside and chatting/playing

Location 7: Wong Tai Sin

Location on Google Maps:

Wong Tai Sin is situated near the base of Lion Rock, meaning that you can head there to get a famous shot of Lion Rock through the gaps in the buildings. Additionally, the Chuk Yuen South Estate (and the other estates round the area) is one of the most hidden gems that Hong Kong has to offer. Head here to get people playing chess in the courtyards, old ladies sitting and having a chat, and some great shots of the traditional urban density that you can find in Hong Kong. I’d recommend pairing it with another stop on the map, as if you were to spend an entire day here, you might find it gets a little tedious.

Things to look out for:

• Lion Rock (and a gap in the buildings)

• People playing Mah Jiong or chess in the public areas

• Outside conversations

• Urban density

Location 8: North Point

Location on Google Maps:

North Point is home to one of the most iconic street photography locations - Chun Yeung Street Market. It’s famous because of the tram that shuttles directly through the market, providing an ideal scene of the hubbub of activity in one of Hong Kong’s busiest locations. However, if you venture off the beaten path, North Point is a perfect slice of life for the keen eyed street photographer. I’d recommend starting at the main market, but allowing time to walk through the back streets to capture some of the more local scenes. Don’t be afraid to walk down some of the alleys to find some more unique angles and shots.

Things to look out for:

• Cheung Yeung Street Market - a famous market where the tram runs through the middle of the road

• Shopkeepers and their pets

• Trams and more trams

• Some neons left over still exist here

Location 9: Jordan

I’m often amazed at just how overlooked Jordan is as a street photography location in Hong Kong. Whilst Temple Street market is relatively well known, the grid of streets that surround it are also prime locations for fantastic street photography images. I’d recommend heading there either earlyish in the morning for some morning light, or early afternoon for a more diffused kind of lighting before sunset. If you do go in the morning, Temple street is actually better (in my opinion) without all the stalls fully set up. Firstly, you can get a wide view of the actual gates that mark the entrance and exit to Temple Street, secondly, there are less people jostling you around in the crowd, and finally, the people setting up the stalls make for interesting subjects themselves.

Things to look out for:

• Stalls being set up with silhouttes

• Overhead lanterns

• Temple Street gates

• Hairdressers and the key cutters

Want to Improve Your Street Photography?

If you’re looking to improve your photography and develop your own style as a competent street (or aerial) photographer, you can book a free consultation using the link below and we can discuss.

Hopefully you found this article useful. I’ll continue to update with more Hong Kong hidden gems as and when I discover them. Finding the best photography locations can mean either straying off beaten paths to find something less explored, or visiting more explored locations but still finding something new. If you have any recommendations for hidden photography spots in Hong Kong, please let me know and I’ll be sure to check them out.

Thanks for reading.

Let’s make things clear from the offset. There is no ‘best' kind of lighting for street photography. As street photography is about moments, scenes, people, places, there are multiple factors that determine whether or not a street shot is a good one. Lighting might be one of them, but it is by no means the be all and end all, and it certainly shouldn’t be a deciding factor as to whether or not you pick up your camera and go out and shoot. Different lighting yields different results and, whilst certain types of lighting might be conducive to certain types of results, I would encourage you to take to the streets in all lighting conditions - with overcast lighting, when it’s raining, at night, in bright sunlight - to see what you can get for yourself.

However, understanding of the best types of lighting for street photography can help you get the best out of your time on the streets and can help you determine the best composition, camera settings and subject choices to create photos that are truly special. 

It’s also worth noting and repeating (one of) my mantra(‘s) for street photography (or any type of photography for that matter): 

Light isn’t as important as how you capture the light.

If you’re presented with beautiful light but you blow out the highlights, or you shoot from a less optimal angle, or you mess up the composition, you won’t be getting the best out of your moments and your photos will suffer for it. Don’t underestimate the importance of lighting, but don’t overestimate it to the extent that it eclipses the other aspects of what makes a good photograph. It’s also worth considering whether or not lighting is secondary in importance to capturing a specific moment - especially for street photography.

With that being said, let’s take a look at some of the possible lighting settings you might encounter and dive deeper into how you can get the best out of it. I hope you’ll find it illuminating.

Street Lighting: Backlight

As the name suggests, this kind of lighting is where your primary source of light is behind the subject and, depending on brightness, can result in a partial or complete silhouette. Positioning of the backlighting can also result in rim lighting - illumination of the edges of the subject - that creates a dramatic lighting effect. 

When used correctly backlighting can produce vivid and dramatic results. I’d recommend heading out into the city and experimenting with a variety of subjects using the low sun as a natural source of backlight to see what kind of silhouette and rim lighting you can achieve in your shots.

Street Lighting: Golden Hour

Shooting street photography during golden hour offers numerous benefits, including soft, warm light that creates a pleasing and flattering effect on subjects, long shadows that add depth and dimension, and enhanced colors that make photos more vibrant and rich. 

The unique atmosphere of golden hour adds a magical, surreal quality to images, while the directional light provides creative opportunities for effects like lens flares and backlighting. These elements combine to make golden hour an ideal time for capturing stunning street photography. Have you tried shooting during this time before? If so, what was your experience like?

Street Lighting: Bright Sunlight

Shooting street photography during bright sunlight offers several benefits, including high-contrast lighting that simplifies scenes and produces dramatic shadows, and an abundance of light that allows for faster shutter speeds to capture sharp, detailed images of moving subjects. 

Bright sunlight enhances colors, making photos more vivid and eye-catching, while the strong light and shadows add depth and dimension to compositions, making them more dynamic and engaging. Additionally, the harsh lighting can create a unique mood and atmosphere, often giving photos a more intense and energetic feel. Have you tried shooting street photography in bright sunlight before? If so, what challenges did you face?

Street Lighting: Night Light

Shooting street photography at night offers the dynamic interplay of various light sources like street lamps, neon signs, and car headlights, creating dramatic and colorful scenes. The nighttime atmosphere adds a mysterious and moody vibe, with pronounced shadows and contrasts that give your images a unique look. 

The less crowded streets allow for more intimate and unobstructed scenes, while the low light conditions challenge you to experiment with different camera settings and techniques, such as long exposures and light trails, resulting in stunning and creative shots. Additionally, the unique behavior and attire of people at night provide interesting subjects and candid moments that are not typically found during the day.

SUMMARY

Whilst light is crucial for photographers, capturing the moment often takes precedence over finding the perfect light. Use the above as rough guidelines to make you aware of what lighting conditions you’ll encounter when you’re out and about shooting, but remember that unique moments are what you should be looking for.

Good luck!

• Introduction

• How Much Should You Edit Street Photography Images?

• Recommended Software for Photography Post-Processing

• Step 1: A Look at the RAW File

• Step 2: Making Lightroom Edits

• Step 3: Bringing into Photoshop

• Step 4: Final Changes on Lightroom Mobile

• Useful Tips & Tricks for Image Post-Processing

Introduction:

On one of my recent walks around Sheung Wan, I happened to snap one of my favorite street photography shots in the area - a photo of an elderly shopkeeper taking a cigarette break at the front of his stall. The shot (shown below) was taken at the hip, resulting in a tilted, underexposed image that had some promise, but would need a fair bit of post processing in Lightroom and Photoshop to get to a good level. After posting the photo on Reddit, I had a few users enquiring about the settings of the original photo and the amount of post-processing that had gone into it to achieve the final result. 

In this article, I’ll use the original image to discuss in a bit more detail about how I edited the photo, what kind of post-processing I’d recommend for street photography, what software is best for photo editing street shots, how you can touch up your photos to improve on the RAW image, and what common mistakes you should avoid both in general, and more specifically in editing street shots.

How Much Should You Edit Street Photography Images?

Before we dive into the editing process, I’d like to clarify what I consider to be acceptable editing for street photography. Please note this is my personal opinion - feel free to edit your photos in whichever way you wish - I make these comments only as a suggestion, focusing more specifically on applications for street photography over any other type of photography.

Obviously with street photography, there is a heavy emphasis on capturing ‘real moments’, particular instances in time that can’t be repeated or replicated. They focus on an instant, showing a point in time of significance to the photographer, the subjects, or the audience and, in the interest of preserving the realism of the moment itself, I am against heavy editing that may alter or detract from the original photograph. Here’s a list of what I deem acceptable and unacceptable post-processing steps for street photography images.

Acceptable Edits to Street Photography Images

• Cropping

• Fixes in Lens Distortion & Alignment

• Dodging and burning to highlight or reduce emphasis on a particular area of the image

• Changing hues & saturation

• Tone curve adjustments

• Clarity & sharpness adjustments

• Removal of small defects that otherwise detract from the overall image

Unacceptable Edits to Street Photography Images

• Use of AI to remove or alter entire chunks of the image

• Insertion of any subjects that weren’t in the original photo to begin with

• Any major alterations to key subjects through AI tools or other means

To clarify what I mean about small defects - a small piece of trash on the floor can be cleaned up, but the deletion of an entire person in the background of the photo would be a step too far. It’s worth noting that plenty of photography competitions will also disqualify entrants who have used the removal tool even in basic scenarios. Please check the rules in detail for any competition you enter to avoid having your image disqualified for use of removal or AI tools.

Recommended Software for Photography Post-Processing

Lightroom Classic/Mobile

I personally prefer the classic version of Lightroom as the controls seem to be more comprehensive. I’d recommend using the mobile version as a final editing program before posting on social media, as you’ll get closest to what your image will look like on most mobile screens. I tend to avoid making any big edits on Lightroom mobile, preferring to save it for last minute exposure adjustments to take into account brightness and contrast for mobile phones. The majority of edits can be completed in Lightroom, including all of the main lighting adjustments, color adjustments, and lens and perspective corrections. 

Photoshop

Depending on just how much editing needs to be done, you may want to edit the image in Photoshop for further enhancements. I tend to use Photoshop to remove minor distractions such as dirt on the floor, smudges on the lens, or bits of rubbish that may divert the eye. I also use it for more specific dodging and burning to make the final image pop. Finally, I often add a bit of Orton effect where needed to give a slight glow to the image. I’d recommend downloading the most recent version of Photoshop to ensure you have the best functionality with which to edit your photo. 

Now, let’s look at the example photo and go through the steps I took to produce the final version. 

Step 1: Taking the RAW Image

Here we have the out of camera image of a shopkeeper taking a cigarette break in front of a goods store in Sheung Wan. This image was taken on a Leica Q2 (with a fixed 28mm Summilux lens) at aperture F4.5 and a shutter speed of 1/125s. As I was shooting from hip height, I cranked up the aperture setting to guarantee that the subject would be in focus. I also shot on multi-shot mode and reset the focus each time to ensure I would have at least one image that would be in focus - the Leica autofocus can be a bit hit and miss, so I’d rather have hundreds of shots with a few in focus than have a few with none in focus.

If you’re looking for locations to get the best authentic images in Hong Kong, you can read my Hong Kong hidden gems guide here.

Let’s get into the editing.

Step 2: Making Lightroom Edits

That’s much better. You can see that the above image has corrected a lot of the flaws of the RAW image, including cropping and alignment, exposure, and color. For the basic edits, I’ve take a screenshot of the Lightroom editing panel that shows global adjustments to the image.

The next step after global edits is to add in a bunch of filters to enhance the subject and take the focus off any distractions in the background that could divert the eye. You can see in the image below I’ve added a number of filters - these include:

1. Linear gradient filters around the edges of the image to decrease exposure.

2. Radial gradient filters at the centre of the image and over the subject to increase exposure.

3. Subject filters to highlight the man in the front of the shop.

Here’s a rough guide of how the filters look:

Step 3: Bringing in to Photoshop

In Photoshop you have many tools at your disposal to enhance the image even further. Please note that this software is going to be the one that you’ll need to show the most restraint in, especially with new features such as Generative AI and the Remove tool. The aim, at least in my opinion, is to enhance the image without altering it, making changes that improve the overall moment without drastic changes. As mentioned above, certain photography competitions are very strict about the use of removal and AI tools, so if in doubt, be sure to check the terms and conditions of the photography site to avoid any disqualifications or disputes further down the line.

Here’s the list of enhancements that have been made in Photoshop:

1. Further dodging and burning (using tone curves and masking).You can see the old man now pops more and the boxes at the front have been made slightly darker.

2. Removed floor stain. This was my personal preference - I didn’t like how the dark stain on the floor detracted from the subject and, while it’s not a big deal, I wanted to remove it.

3. Orton Effect. If you don’t know what this is there are some great YouTube tutorials that show how it works and what it adds to the image. In the image above you can see it in the glow of the lamps and bulbs - it adds a dreamy quality that really helps to enhance the atmosphere in the image.

Step 4: Final Changes in Lightroom Mobile

If you’re posting on social media, I would include this final step in your workflow. This is because editing on your desktop or iPad will look very different to the final result on your mobile phone screen. Once you’ve transferred the image to your mobile, make the last tweaks in Lightroom Mobile, crop for socials, and you can post. I bumped up the exposure slightly more to get the final photo below.

Useful Tips & Tricks for Image Post-Processing

For anyone new to post-processing using Lightroom and Photoshop, I’ve compiled a list of useful tips and tricks that can help with using the applications and getting the best results in your editing.

• Name your files properly. I still fail to do this regularly and it makes finding and sorting the images much more difficult.

• Global adjustments first. Before you jump into filters, be sure to correct the basics.

• Use presets for consistency, but don’t be bound by them. A lot of photographers end up not getting the best out of their images as they get stuck to a certain style or color scheme. Avoid this by being flexible with your presets.

• Don’t go overboard. There’s a temptation to over edit, making the image look too sharp, too saturated or unsaturated, and with too much or too little clarity. Understand that these tools are meant to be enhancements, not overall edits.

• To avoid going overboard, edit the image over a period of 2-3 days. The cardinal rule here is to come back to an edit over the next day or so to look at it with fresh eyes. It can be very easy to stare at an image for hours and lose touch with how to edit it in the best way.

Introduction:

With the release of the Leica Q3 (review upcoming!) earlier this year, many photographers have taken the opportunity of a slightly cheaper price to snap up a Leica Q2 and add it to their collection. Ask many Leica shooters and they’ll say it’s a slippery slope to the M system, with the Q serving as a gateway to a world of interchangeable (and frighteningly expensive) lenses and manual focus. After a couple of particularly arduous street photography shoots with the Sony A7R5, I decided to take the plunge and purchased a Hodinkee Ghost Edition of the Leica Q2 - a decision that I spent a good couple of months weighing up. In this article, we’re going to look at the possible reasons for buying a Leica Q2 for street photography, the specs and features of the Q2, how it serves as a solo street photography camera, and whether or not it’s even worth considering upgrading to the Q3 if you have one. 

Reasons for Buying the Leica Q2

Here we go. Here’s a list of reasons prepared especially for you in advance, so that when you go and tell your wife/husband/partner/significant other why you want need to spend around $4-5K USD on a new bit of gear, you don’t have to struggle for reasons to come up with. It’s worth noting that for this price range, the Leica Q2 is definitely a luxury - no matter how much you convince yourself it’s the perfect camera for you, the reality is that there are many, many, cheaper alternatives that will also get outstanding results. We’ll get to those shortly. For now, let’s look at a comprehensive list of reasons why the Q2 is a fantastic camera to have on your person.

Incredible Build Quality

The Leica Q2 is still an absolute tank of a camera. With no USB ports and innovative designs for the SD card and battery slots, the camera is incredibly well weather sealed and very sturdy. It will survive bumps, scratches, and scrapes and, whilst the initial scratch will hurt, you’ll realise that the camera will survive pretty much any situation you put it in.

Great Resolution - 47.2 Megapixels

More than enough. Don’t listen to the M system advocates or Q3 cronies - a 47 megapixel camera is a ton of resolution to work with. It allows for enough resolution when cropping and can give you some leeway to work with the crop modes included as part of the Leica featureset. If you have a Q2 and you’re thinking about upgrading to the Q3 purely because you want the other 14 or so pixels, I suggest you save your money for an appointment with your local optician. The additional resolution is really negligible and 47 MP will do just fine for street work.

A Monster of a Lens

Using the Summiliux 28mm F1.7 Asph lens, the Q2 provides results of exceptional sharpness and quality. The F1.4 version of the lens sold separately costs more than the entire Q2 itself, so many have referred to both the Q2 and Q3 as a purchase ‘for the lens that comes with the camera attached.’ You’ll get stunning results with this lens and the faster aperture will serve you well for some of those night scenes where you’ll need to bump the ISO. The focal length of (around) 28mm is great for most street scenes, allowing you capture the broader context of the shot 

The Design Rules

Many prefer the design and ergonomics of the Q2 over the Q3. Sure, the Q3 has a nifty little flip screen that might help with shooting from the hip or getting certain angles, but the button layout and design of the Q2 has been praised as being one of the best that Leica have ever offered. I truly believe that this design stands the test of time. One slight downside is the loose lens cap. Oftentimes I’ll be walking around and hear a metallic clunk on the floor as my Q2 lens cap hits the ground behind me. I understand that this has been fixed in the Q3, but it’s a real pain on the Q2.

Portability

I’ve tacked this on to the end as it’s not a full reason in itself. In reality, the Q2 is pretty heavy - it’s just not as heavy as a Sony A7R5 or Nikon Z8. It also eliminates the choice of ‘what lens should I use’, something that I can struggle with before I go out on a photography session. Here your choice is made for you. ‘Take this incredible camera and beautiful lens combo and go forth’ is something I imagine Leica is telling users through this offering. No need to ponder, no need to hassle, just go out and shoot.

Reasons for not Buying the Q2 (or Q3)

It wouldn’t be a comprehensive article without looking at the reasons why you shouldn’t purchase a Q2. Here’s why you shouldn’t get one.

You don’t need it

This will always be the main argument for photographers not purchasing new gear. I know I didn’t my Q2 - I could have settled perfectly on a 24mm or 35mm GM for my Sony camera that would have produced more than adequate results. The new Sony A7CR costs almost half the price of a new Leica Q2/Q3, giving you the option of buying some first quality glass to go with it. If you’re unsure about it, take a few days to consider your current uses and really think it over. 

It Costs a Fortune

Despite the fact that the Leica Q3 has resulted in a price drop for the Leica Q2. Leica being Leica means that the cost is still high. Even if you can afford to purchase a Leica, the real question (as mentioned above) is should you? More often than not, no, you shouldn’t. Take a look at the viable alternatives listed below and save your hard earned money for a holiday or staycation.

Software is Still Clunky

Numerous (I think 5 by now) firmware updates have improved some of the deficiencies of Leica software, and the upgraded Q3 adds on a ton of speed to image sending and connection. However, flaws still exist. The power on time, for example, is a good few seconds longer than other cameras, meaning that you could end up missing that special moment when you’re out and about. Navigating the menus is simple enough, but the software can still lag and impact overall performance.

The Autofocus

I had to adjust my expectations for the autofocus, especially as my workhorse camera is the Sony A7R5, with an autofocus that barely ever misses. The Q2 and Q3 both miss the outstanding accuracy that makes Sony, Canon and Nikon the popular choices for pro photographers. That being said, the Q2 isn’t meant to be used in the same way. Sure, it makes a great option for photographers who want a second camera at weddings or events, but the limited focal length and autofocus mean that it serves a better purpose as a leisure camera, one that you can have on you as a high-resolution alternative to your phone.

Leica Q2 Alternatives:

The Sony A7C/A7CR: Both options are considerably cheaper than the Leica Q2 (even with the Q3 release) and, when combined with a good lens can also be the compact solution you’re looking for. Downsides are that it requires a separate lens purchase (interchangeable lenses are an advantage though) and is still a touch clunkier than the Q2.

The Fuji X100V: Sporting a 26MP X-Trans APS-C sensor, the Fuji X100V is still a great option for photographers to carry around with them. With its retro look, it’s both classy and functional, offering 23mm  (35mm full frame) F2 pancake lens that allows for some cropping for your street shots.

The Ricoh GRIII: A truly compact companion, the GR3 offers a 28mm full frame equivalent in a pocket-sized bundle. The recent release of the Diary version certainly sparked some interest online, and many photographers have got their hands on one to keep a portable solution on them when they’re out and about. It’s much cheaper than the Q2, so I’d advise that you consider a Ricoh if you’re on a budget.  

Thank you for reading. There will also be a Leica Q3 review coming out - watch this space to read it first.

Table of Contents:

• Introduction

• Sunrise: Victoria Peak

• Early Morning: Sheung Wan to Central

• Midday: Star Ferry and M+

• Afternoon: Jordan to Mongkok Walk

• Sunset: Victoria Dockside

• Evening: Nightly Neons

Introduction

After restrictions were dropped and free travel resumed, I received a video call from a photographer friend informing me that he would be visiting Hong Kong for the first time. I subsequently proceeded to bombard him with numerous suggestions on how to spend his time here, detailing several potential locations for aerial and street photography, what kind of gear he would need, what kind of weather conditions might result in the Aqua Luna not raising their middle sail, and all manner of information that I thought might be useful for someone embarking on their first visit to the fragrant harbour. 

Before I could start on my suggestion for apps to check wind speeds and evening rainfall, he took advantage of my pause for breath to interject with: ‘This sounds amazing, but unfortunately I’m just there for a stopover - I’ll be heading to Australia the next morning.’ I did by best to mask my disappointment, taking advantage of my overt Britishness to mumble my way into a response about how ‘that would still be plenty of time to get some great photos,’ and if he ‘skipped breakfast, most of lunch, and all of dinner’ he might be able to get round most of the cool spots.

The reality of the situation is that Hong Kong is a visual paradise for photographers. Want street photography? Prepare yourself for some of the most vibrant, energetic street scenes you could ask for. Landscape photography more your thing? HK has you covered. Head to Sai Kung or New Territories for large expanses of stunning natural vistas as far as the eye can see. Architecture? Need I say more about this one? My point is that Hong Kong has so much to offer all types of photography, it can be hard to know where to start or how to fit everything in. 

With this problem, and the conversation with my friend, both fresh in my mind, I set about creating a one day solution for the photographer in a rush. (A quick side note that I use the term photographer here to encapsulate anyone who takes photos - if you use your mobile phone to snap photos, you’re a photographer.) If you only had one day in Hong Kong, from morning till midnight, what would be the best spots to hit and how could you fit it all in? This article is your answer. The perfect itinerary for photographers with one day in HK. I’ve included key spots, recommended gear for best results, transit times, and suggested subjects. Without further ado, let’s dive in. 

Sunrise: Victoria Peak

Location on Google Maps:

The sun rises in the east and sets in the west, this means that the best option for sunrise, without a doubt, is Victoria Peak. Depending on the time of year, you’ll be able to capture a spectacular panoramic view of the entire city with iconic landmarks - the IFC, the ICC, the BOC building and more, lit up in the rays of the rising sun. In order to get there in time you’ll have to set an early alarm, take a cab to Lugard Road (you can use the Peak Galleria as a destination) and then walk for about 15 - 20 mins along Lugard Road to get to the lookout point. Once you’re there you’ll be presented with that amazing view of Hong Kong island and Kowloon. To capture the entire scene I’d recommend lenses with a focal length equal to or wider than 24mm - if you don’t have one, the wide angle lens on your phone should do just fine. You might also want to bring a tripod or clamp to stabilize your device for slightly longer exposures.

Early Morning: Sheung Wan to Central

Location on Google Maps:

Take a cab or bus down from the Peak and you can head to Sheung Wan for early morning. In addition to having a variety of cafes and restaurants for you to load up on breakfast, the morning light is also a good option for street photography, with goods being shuttled back and forth, trams carrying passengers from stop to stop, and some good contrast to create atmospheric images. If you have a bit more time you can walk to Sai Ying Pun and head to the cafes there for a break. I’d recommend a 24-70mm F2.8 lens for the versatility, or a 24mm, 35mm focal length for some classic street shots. Remember that in Hong Kong the size and density of the buildings affect where the light falls, so be sure to walk around to see what you can discover.

Midday: Star Ferry and M+

Location on Google Maps:

You can take the Star Ferry from Central to Tsim Sha Tsui and walk around for some street images. TST is a buzzing, lively neighborhood with a lot of people, but, as an area known for shopping and hotels, it lacks the more gritty, interesting side of Hong Kong that you find in Sham Shui Po or Mongkok. For midday light, when the sun is highest in the sky and the lighting could be at its harshest, I’d suggest heading to M+ museum for a look at the architecture, some of the shots of the skyline, and some interesting images of West Kowloon activities. You can also spend some time in the museum itself to view the photography on display - there are some fascinating images from Greg Girard that show an older Hong Kong and explore the now demolished area of Kowloon Walled City.

Afternoon: Jordan to Mongkok Walk

Location on Google Maps:

Time to sink your teeth into some proper street photography and, believe me, Hong Kong doesn’t disappoint. You can cab or MTR to Jordan station and exit out of MTR Exit F for the Ladies Market. The walk to Mongkok takes around 40 minutes, but you will definitely take longer as you stop to take your images. Be sure to look out for street markets and stalls, taxis, interesting shops, or whatever takes your fancy. That 24-70mm F2.8 should come in handy, allowing you to zoom without getting too close, but if you’re feeling a bit braver, a 24mm or 35mm will also do. You can easily spend a couple of hours on this walk, but if you have any extra time you can try out some of the more local cuisine and relax.  

Sunset: Victoria Dockside

Location on Google Maps:

Here you can switch from ‘street photography mode’ to ‘travel mode’. You can grab a cab or MTR it to Victoria Dockside where you’ll be presented with an incredible view of the Hong Kong skyline. Around this time there will be a ton of people, but the walkway is long enough for you to be able to get a clear view of the skyline from pretty much any point. You’re allowed to use tripods, so if you have one you can set that up for use. The main subjects here are the Aqua Luna and the ferries that sail back and forth in front of the skyline. With the right light and composition you can get a classic shot that shows Hong Kong at its best. Wide angles will give you the full skyline, but zoom lenses like the 24-70mm F2.8 or even the 70-200mm F2.8 will be better for calling out individual subjects.

Evening: Nightly Neons

Location on Google Maps:

By this point you’d be feeling pretty exhausted, but if you’re hardcore enough you can hunt out some of the remaining neons in Hong Kong. I’ve written an article on TimeOut that shows the best locations for capturing neons, but my best recommendation is that you grab a cab straight back to Mongkok to get the corner neons at Chang Sha street. These are some of the best, brightest neons still up, so if you’re going to choose, I’d strongly recommend these ones.

That should be the end of your single, intense, very tiring but also very productive day in Hong Kong. If you’ve visited all those locations you should definitely have SD cards brimming with beautiful photos that you’ll need to unload and edit. If you’re one of the people that has chosen to follow this itinerary, please let me know how you got on and what results you managed to get. 

If you’d like to attend a guided street photography session where I give tips, tutorials and advice on how to shoot Hong Kong, you can click the button below to get in touch.

Are you a photography enthusiast looking to delve into the exciting world of street photography? Look no further than the bustling streets of Hong Kong, a city that offers a myriad of captivating scenes waiting to be captured. In this beginner's guide, we will explore the essence of street photography in Hong Kong, providing you with valuable insights and tips to kickstart your journey into this electrifying art form.

Table of Contents:

1. Embrace the Hidden Gems

2. Practice Doesn’t Make Perfect - But What is Perfection Anyway?

3. Make Use of Quick Tips & Tricks

4. Gear Up for Success: Choose the Right Tools for the Job

5. Head to the Top Spots for HK Street Photography

6. Conclusion
   

Embrace the Hidden Gems

While iconic landmarks and popular tourist spots have their charm, street photographers often seek unique moments in lesser-known locations. These hidden gems offer a more authentic and local experience, allowing you to capture the essence of everyday life in Hong Kong. I’ve curated a list of hidden gems for street photography in the city. These locations provide a greater level of cultural immersion and the opportunity to witness unplanned moments and genuine interactions.

• Lei Yue Mun: Known primarily as a fish market, Lei Yue Mun offers a buzzing hub of activity beyond its seafood stalls. Explore the narrow streets, capturing images of local stalls, fruit stands, restaurants, and temples.

• Tai Kok Tsui: Located to the west of Mong Kok, Tai Kok Tsui offers a more local environment with towering apartment buildings, market stalls, and car shops. Take a stroll through this neighborhood to discover unique street scenes.

• To Kwa Wan: Home to numerous auto shops and garages, To Kwa Wan presents a unique backdrop for your street photography. Explore the roads lined with these establishments, capturing the essence of this vibrant area.

Practice Doesn’t Make Perfect - But What is Perfection Anyway?

To elevate your street photography skills, it's essential to understand the nuances and techniques that make a compelling image. My article on mastering street photography in Hong Kong provides some valuable insights on how to shape light and create stunning images. By understanding lighting, composition, and timing, you can capture the essence of Hong Kong's streets in a captivating way.

• Composition: Pay attention to the elements within your frame and how they interact with each other. Experiment with different angles, leading lines, and points of interest to create visually engaging compositions 2.

• Lighting: Hong Kong's vibrant streets offer a diverse range of lighting conditions. Explore the interplay of light and shadow, capturing the dramatic contrasts that add depth and atmosphere to your images 2.

• Timing: Street photography is all about capturing fleeting moments. Be patient, observe your surroundings, and anticipate interesting interactions or gestures. Timing is key to capturing those decisive moments that tell a story 2.

Make Use of Quick Tips & Tricks

Embarking on your street photography journey can be both exciting and challenging. To help you navigate the streets of Hong Kong with confidence, here is a list of quick tips and tricks for street photography in the city. These insights will empower you to capture compelling images and make the most of your photographic opportunities.

• Be Observant: Pay attention to your surroundings and the people within them. Look for interesting characters, unique fashion, and cultural details that define Hong Kong's streets.

• Engage with the Locals: Don't be afraid to interact with the people you encounter on the streets. Engaging in a friendly conversation or seeking permission before taking a photo can lead to more authentic and meaningful images.

• Experiment with Perspectives: Explore different angles and perspectives to add dynamism to your images. Get down low, find vantage points, or experiment with reflections to create visually engaging compositions.

Gear Up for Success: Choose the Right Tools for the Job

Having the right camera setup can significantly enhance your street photography experience. This article on the ultimate camera setup for street photography in Hong Kong offers valuable insights into the equipment that can help you capture stunning images. While the gear doesn't make the photographer, having the appropriate tools can provide you with the flexibility and capabilities to seize the perfect shot.

• Camera: Choose a camera that suits your needs and preferences. Whether it's a compact mirrorless camera or a versatile DSLR, ensure it is lightweight, discreet, and easy to handle in fast-paced street environments.

• Lenses: A versatile lens, such as a 24-70mm, can provide you with the flexibility to capture a wide range of compositions. Experiment with different focal lengths to capture both wide-angle scenes and close-up details.

• Accessories: Consider carrying additional accessories such as spare batteries, memory cards, and a comfortable camera strap.

Head to the Top Spots for HK Street Photography

Hong Kong is a vibrant city with countless picturesque locations for street photography. Here you’ll find a curated a list of the top places in Hong Kong for street photography. These locations offer a variety of captivating scenes and interesting subjects to capture.

• Central: The heart of Hong Kong's business district, Central, offers a juxtaposition of towering skyscrapers and bustling streets. Capture the energy of the city's financial hub and explore the hidden alleys that reveal a different side of Central.

• Mong Kok: Known for its vibrant street markets and bustling crowds, Mong Kok is a paradise for street photographers. The lively atmosphere, neon signs, and local vendors create an endless array of captivating street scenes.

• Sheung Wan: This neighborhood is a perfect blend of old and new, with traditional shops and trendy cafes lining its streets. Capture the unique charm of Sheung Wan, where heritage meets modernity.

Join Street Photography Classes

To truly immerse yourself in the art of street photography, consider joining my street photography classes. These classes provide valuable guidance, practical tips, and hands-on experience to help you refine your skills and develop your own unique style.

• Photography 101: If you are new to photography, this introductory class covers the basics of camera settings, composition, and lighting. Gain a solid foundation to kickstart your street photography journey.

• Nightly Neons - Street Photography After Dark: Dive into the vibrant nightlife of Hong Kong and learn how to capture mesmerizing night scenes. Discover the techniques for handling low light and incorporating artificial lights into your compositions.

Conclusion

Embarking on a journey into street photography in Hong Kong is an exhilarating experience. With hidden gems to explore, mastering the craft, quick tips and tricks to keep in mind, and top locations to visit, you are well-equipped to capture the essence of this dynamic city. Joining street photography classes will further enhance your skills and provide valuable guidance on your creative path.

So grab your camera, hit the streets, and let the vibrant spirit of Hong Kong inspire your street photography adventures!

To continue reading more articles and guides on street photography, visit Blair Sugarman Photography.

Introduction

If you read my previous article on thinking about an answer to the ultimate question of ‘why photography’, and have decided that you’d like to pursue a specific avenue of the art with the aim of getting recognition for your work, this piece is for you. In this article we’ll look at two key methods for getting noticed as a photographer in an overly saturated market. First, we’ll look at some context around the industry, the sheer volume and size of which means that photographers often struggle with recognition, often resorting to other means of media to attract some more eyeballs.

Next, we’ll look at the two methods I suggest, and discuss how you can use them to your advantage without having to compromise on your artistic or creative integrity.

The Overly Saturated World of Photography

Wondering how to sell your photos? Want to get your work displayed in galleries? Want to work with celebrities to get recognition for your skills as a portrait photographer? The harsh reality of the situation is that you’ll need to get in line, and boy is it a long line. I’ve discussed on numerous occasions the role that social media has played in bringing photography (and now videography) to the forefront of our attention. The rise of Instagram had a profound impact on the way we consume images and video, leading to a scramble for attention and the rapid adoption of photography as a means to get noticed. Photography as a means of generating dopamine essentially superseded photography as an art form, with many social media users opting to take a wide variety of photos across a wide variety of photographic genres. I’ve discussed the merits and disadvantages of this in previous articles so I won’t repeat myself - I will clarify again though that I don’t see any inherent issue in wanting to take photos to get noticed, as long as you: a. understand the reason why you’re taking the photos and b. that the reason that you started taking photos matches with the reason that you continue to take photos. 

What this broad genre of ‘social media photography’ has led to is a dilution of the art. Everyone (myself included) wants to use cameras, drones, action cams, portrait lenses etc. to capture any and all types of photos - whatever gets you noticed. What most people don’t realize (and what took me some time to work out) is that this is incredibly counterintuitive. If you’re making your body of work broader and broader to cover more types of work to get noticed, you’re actually diluting whatever qualities might make you distinguishable and unique as a photographer. Imagine if Christopher Nolan decided to expand his focus to make a children’s TV series because he discovered he could get more people watching - it would most likely rob him of everything that makes him unique as a director. With social media driving us, we tend not to think of this very important point - we’re too busy trying to capture whatever will get us noticed, inadvertently producing the opposite result as we lose ourselves in the mass of people who are trying to do the exact same thing. The question is, how do we get out of it?

Like most things that bring about huge benefits, it requires short-term sacrifice for long-term gain, in this case sacrificing short-term attention to build something different, special and individual. If you’ve already identified the reason for your photography, I have two suggested ways that will definitely increase your chances of getting noticed as a photographer: niches and projects.

The Solution: Niches & Projects

It’s not rocket science. Distancing yourself from the masses requires direction, meaning and focus, and finding and owning a niche is just one of the ways in which that can be achieved. You can find a niche or you can develop a niche, but having a niche is the ultimate goal. Why? Because if you own that niche, whenever someone sees your work they will immediately identify it as yours, sometimes to the extent that anyone else doing the same kind of work will be compared to you. I think Reuben Wu is a great example of this - anyone even attempting to do light painting with a drone is very quickly compared to Reuben and his body of work - he well and truly owns the niche. You can devote all your time and energy to improving your particular style of photography and, precisely for that reason, do it better than everyone else, further cementing your place in said niche. 

It will be difficult and it will take sacrifice. I know that giving up my aerial photography to double down on street photography will likely result in many missed sunsets and mornings of sea of clouds - heck, I can still go and capture some, but, for the work that I want to be known and noticed for, I need to work on developing that niche. 

Another way of getting noticed, also in the same vein as developing or focusing on a niche, is by drilling down into a project. This is because you can use a specific theme or element to tie your images together and showcase them as a collection of works, rather than relying on sporadic, disconnected images to get noticed. One of the benefits of working on projects/themes is that it can be done retroactively - you can look back at all your previous photos and identify a thread that can pull them together. I spoke with renowned photographer Martin Parr a while back who stated that sometimes he notices a connection in his previous work and pulls it together into a collection. Other times he sets out to explore a theme and capture images that fit accordingly. Either way, you’re benefiting from just taking single images and flogging them on social media to try to get attention. 

Some Considerations to get Started

Here’s a couple of considerations for those of you that would like to explore the direction of niches and projects:

1. What subjects or genres of photography do I enjoy capturing the most? Identify the areas of photography that genuinely excite you and bring you joy. Consider subjects like landscapes, portraits, wildlife, fashion, weddings, food, sports, or any other specific genre that resonates with you.

2. What are my strengths and skills in photography? Assess your technical skills, artistic abilities, and any unique strengths that set you apart as a photographer. Determine the areas where you excel and can deliver exceptional results.

3. What kind of photography work sparks my creativity and inspiration? Reflect on the types of photography projects or assignments that ignite your creativity and motivate you to push your boundaries. Consider the styles, themes, or concepts that resonate with your artistic vision.

4. Who is my ideal target audience or client? Define the characteristics of your ideal clients or target audience within a particular niche. Consider their demographics, interests, and the type of photography they value. Understanding your target audience helps you tailor your services and marketing efforts effectively.

5. What makes my photography unique or different from others? Identify your unique selling points, whether it's a distinct style, perspective, technique, or approach to photography. Determine how you can stand out from the competition and offer something valuable and compelling to clients.

6. What is the market demand for different photography niches? Research the market demand for various photography niches. Consider the popularity, competition, and potential opportunities within each niche. Analyze the trends, client needs, and the viability of sustaining your business in a particular niche.

7. Am I willing to invest time and effort in learning and mastering a specific niche? Assess your commitment to continuous learning and improvement within a chosen niche. Determine if you're willing to invest time, resources, and effort to develop expertise in that area.

8. How can I align my passion with profitability? Explore the intersection between your passion and market demand. Consider how you can monetize your chosen niche and create a sustainable business model that aligns with your financial goals.

9. Can I see myself working on this niche in the long run? Evaluate the long-term sustainability of the niche you're considering. Reflect on whether you can envision yourself consistently working in that area, maintaining your enthusiasm, and finding fulfillment in your photography career.

10. What resources and opportunities are available for growth in this niche? Research the availability of resources, networking opportunities, mentorship, workshops, or industry associations that support growth within your chosen niche. Consider how you can leverage these resources to enhance your skills and expand your professional network.

Introduction:

In one of my previous articles I put together a list of tips and tricks to improve your photography when out on the streets of Hong Kong. Whilst some of them address the cultural and locational aspects of shooting in a city like HK, a few of them are about making the best of the light sources - both natural and man made, to get the best out of the shots. In this article, I’d like to explore this topic in more depth and give you a single tip that will produce incredible results with your photography.

Shaping the Light in an Urban Setting

Street photography master Fan Ho was a master of shaping light in the city. Hong Kong in the 1950s and 60s wasn’t the imposing cluster of steel and concrete that it is today, but it was still a key trading hub with activity everywhere - people rushing back and forth, bustling market stalls, ships shuttling back and forth in the harbor. Fan Ho’s unique take on the city was to make use of the available light sources to add an incredible amount of contrast and depth to his images. He could shape the light, using it to highlight the subjects, lead the viewer's eye, and tailor his composition. Using his style of photography as an example, we too can learn to shape light in Hong Kong, making use of the best hours of the day to create dynamic visuals with depth that highlight our subject matter and compose our images. 

A while ago I was out on a street photography mission in downtown Hong Kong. It was a beautiful afternoon in the city and the sun had started to descend towards the horizon - the perfect time to capture all the pockets of light in between the buildings, using the light to highlight certain subjects. In the past, I, like many other photographers, have checked apps, cams, forecasts, and headed out before golden hour thinking that sunset light would let me shoot the city in its best state. What I didn’t realize, however, is that unlike other cities around the world, the sheer height of the buildings in Hong Kong meant that a couple of hours before sunset is actually the perfect time to capture images. If sunset is at 7pm, you need to be out at 3 - 4pm to get the desired results. If you wait till past that, the sun is no longer high enough in the sky to cast shadows between the buildings, and you’re stuck using reflections or other light sources where possible. 

One Key Tip to Level Up your Photography

Distilling that down into one key tip to improve your street photography: If you want to shape light, head out a few hours before sunset to ensure you actually have light to work with. 

Once you’ve done that, you can identify areas where contrast might help to highlight your subjects and set up your shot to serve your photograph best. In the photos I’ve included as examples below, I was ‘fishing’, a street photography technique that involves waiting for the subject to appear, rather than moving around constantly. Ultimately, the light helps you narrow down your options and you can either fish or move to another location to continue fishing until you get your desired results. For shooting settings, I tend to shoot to expose for highlights and bring up the shadows afterwards. My settings for the shot below were 1/2000s, F5.6, ISO 100, giving me the option to add highlights and lift the shadows.

I have people ask me what equipment I use to capture my results. My response is always the same - the camera doesn’t really matter, within reason. If you have a DSLR or a mirrorless camera that has a good bit of glass on the front, that should enable you to get similar results to the images above. I would recommend a slightly larger sensor size for street photography, as it allows you to crop the image in post and maintain a good level of resolution. 

Want Some Help Levelling Up Your Street Photography?

If you’re looking for a structured way to improve your photography, you can book a 1-1 chat with me and we can discuss a custom lesson plan to develop your skills as a photographer.

Thanks for taking the time to read this. If you have any questions or thoughts, feel free to send them my way. Look out for upcoming articles and catch you in the next one.

Blair

I often receive Instagram DMs from friends and followers who are curious about getting started with photography: What’s the best gear to get started? What camera do you use? How do I get noticed? Where should I post my photos?

Whilst all these questions are irrefutably valid and worthy of addressing at some point in an often arduous journey of becoming a self-respecting photographer, they tend to fall under the umbrella of ‘how photography’.

‘How photography’ consists of a subset of questions that focuses on the process of becoming a photographer, but one that often neglects a more difficult albeit more important subset of questions that ultimately sets a more secure foundation on which to build either a successful photography career or satisfying photography hobby. It’s the neglect of this vital subset of questions that has ultimately resulted in a loss of originality, creativity and experimentation in the photography space in recent years, resulting in the same, tired, worn down tropes being constantly propagated on social media, thoughtless gimmicks for the sake of small, regular dopamine hits in the form of likes and shares, and the overall transformation of photography into the predominantly soulless exercise that it is today.

This subset is, of course, ‘why photography’.

So, Why Photography?

If ‘how photography’, the question that so many people are tripping over themselves trying to answer, is the process, then ‘why photography’, the question that people should really be examining before ever looking at things like which camera model offers the best color science, is the core, the essence, the raison d’etre that should exist at the start of every photographer’s journey and ultimately be present throughout the entire creative process. 

Don’t get me wrong - I’m not expecting everyone with even a slight curiosity about photography to wake up one morning with the epiphany that they want to give up all worldly possessions to track and document the breeding patterns of the Cuban snail. I’m merely suggesting that the questions I discuss below can serve as a starting point and/or subsequent checkpoints that lead to a more original, more creative and more fulfilling photographic venture. There is absolutely no reason why the answers to the ‘why photography’ questions can’t change along the way, but it is up to you to ensure that the photography you’re currently doing, and the reason why you’re doing it are and continue to be aligned - if they’re not, that’s when it’s time for a bit of a wakeup call. 

As someone with experience of doing things the wrong way round and going through their own wake up call, I hope that my past mistakes documented in this article will serve photographic enthusiasts well, acting as sincere advice for those who want to get started with photography in the modern age.

Once Our Biggest Opportunity, Now Our Biggest Downfall

When you look into the history of photographic masters like Ansel Adams or Joel Meyerowitz, you can see that the world in which they started photography was very different to the world we live in today. Perhaps this difference has allowed for a clearer, deeper understanding of ‘why photography’ than many of us have in the digital age. Joel Meyerowitz (who’s street photography masterclass I often refer to as ‘Voldemort teaches street photography’ - jokes aside, it’s absolutely fantastic) is 85 years old, having started photography over 60 years ago. He quit his job at an advertising agency after seeing Robert Frank (another of the American great photographers) at work, and took to the streets with a 35mm film camera to capture his unique perspective on life in New York. Listening to him talk about photography is inspiring and infectious - he has such clarity on what he wants to achieve as a photographer and what he’s aiming to show through his work. He grew up in an age where images and video weren’t oozing from every crevice of our societal (or social for that matter!) existence, giving him a potentially clearer focus and starting point for an epic, unique photography career. 

Therein lies the rub. The society we live in is programmed to consume media. Every screen in our existence provides easy access to exabytes of images that, when paired with a validation system of likes, shares and comments like those that exist on social media platforms, offer a rather enticing portal to a world of attention, recognition, fame and fortune. The possibility of getting our images seen by millions of people at the touch of a button is an opiate of the modern masses, a pipedream that exists to get people churning out content that in turn forms the very fabric of the platforms that capture so much of our attention. 

Instagram started with images but, following the competition from rivals like Tik Tok, has since pushed users towards the creation of reels and video content, leading to those that started out as photographers now turning to ‘content creation’ in an effort to stay relevant. I’ll be honest with you - I really, really dislike the term ‘content creator’. It suggests a kind of mindless conformity without any definition or purpose, an absence of any type of specific medium, with the implication that said person will ‘create’ whichever means of ‘content’ will garner the most attention. It reduces art forms like photography and videography that should be steeped in meaning and self-expression into assembly lines for public consumption.

I’ll pause here momentarily for a short clarification - I do understand the need to use certain mediums and content types to get an audience and get noticed. For example, if you’re a chef that wants to show off your skills through reels posted on IG, more power to you. The difference is that hopefully you’ve considered the ‘why’ part of your career or hobby before doing so and have thus adopted social media as a medium through which to get noticed and peddle your trade. A key difference with photographers is that because the photos are the medium, there is a risk that you skip the ‘why’ part entirely and just want to take photos with the hope of getting noticed. 

Whereas the space was relatively small in the days before the days of the internet and camera phones, photography now exists as an art judged by the masses, meaning that social media users are more likely than ever to be influenced by which of their posts gets the most likes. Essentially, the Joel Meyerwitz’s and Ansel Adams of the photography space are no longer - our photographic endeavours often lack meaning, purpose and clarity, lost in a swirling vortex of need for validation, dopamine and instant gratification. What once was our biggest opportunity to get an audience, now risks becoming our biggest downfall. 

Getting in Touch With Your Inner ‘Why’

What’s the solution for this predicament then? Conform? Immediately adopt the ‘content creator’ moniker, buy three more video cameras, two new sets of microphones and ring light and start making whichever content we think will do best based on platform features, trends and whatever gets the most likes? Or, perhaps, we do the opposite - all rush out to buy film cameras in an effort to bring out our inner purist, dramatically destroy our phones with a hammer, and only display our photos in prestigious galleries that we’re invited to exhibit in? 

The answer, unsurprisingly, is neither. Despite my distaste for the term ‘content creator’, content creation for content creation’s sake is perfectly acceptable - if you’re creating content to make a living and get noticed - and you’re aware that you’re doing it for these reasons, then great, all is peachy. If you’re either a photographer who started out doing one thing but has ended up doing something very different and now feels a bit lost, or someone who has never considered the purpose of your photography before, there is no time like the present to get in touch with your inner ‘why’.  

Stop what you are doing (finish this article first, then stop), grab a pen and paper, or an iPad, or chalk, or whatever writing instrument you may have near your person (I’ll stop short of recommending using your own blood - we’re writing a photography exercise, not a Faustian contract). Find a quiet space devoid of distractions and avoid picking up your phone and getting lost in the blackhole of IG. Look at the set of questions below and jot down some short answers - these will serve as the initial checkpoint that you can refer back to in the coming months and years to see if your motivations for photography have changed. The aim of this exercise is to have a basis for future reflection at any point you deem it necessary - being aware of the way that our art evolves and changes - whether independently or under the influence of societal pressure. Constantly reflecting on your aim of doing things is a good way to maintain creativity and originality. If you’re new to photography, skip down to the second set of questions as they’ll be slightly more relevant for you. 

The Inner Why Exercise:

What you’ll need:

• A writing implement

• A quiet space free of distractions

• Your brain 

• 10 - 15 minutes 

Questions for Photographers to Develop Your Inner Why:

1. What got you interested in photography in the first place? 

2. What type of photography have I been doing in my time spent on it? 

3. What subjects do I want to photograph?

4. Does my current photography focus (pun intended) match the reason I got interested in photography?

5. Why do I enjoy the type of photography I’m currently doing? 

6. What am I trying to express through my images, whether to myself, the subject, or the audience. 

7. How can I improve my photography in line with my interest in it? 

8. What equipment do I need to do my photography?

9. How much time am I willing to invest in getting my photography from where it is now to where I want it to be. 

10. What are some concrete goals I can assign to my photography and how can I achieve them?

For those of you interested in getting started with photography, here are some more pertinent questions for you.

Questions for Aspiring Photographers to Develop Your Inner Why:

1. What got you interested in starting photography in the first place? 

2. What type of photography am I most interested in pursuing? 

3. What subjects do I want to photograph?

4. What is the reason I want to pursue photography and what will it mean to me?

5. Why might I enjoy the type of photography I’m interested in? 

6. What do I want to express through my images, whether to myself, the subject, or the audience. 

7. How can I improve my photography in line with my interest in it? 

8. What equipment do I need to get my photography journey started?

9. How much time am I willing to invest in getting my photography to where I want it to be. 

10. What are some concrete goals I can assign to my photography and how can I achieve them?

The Purpose of the ‘Inner Why’

Remember, the desired outcome of this exercise isn’t to get you to smash your phone or storm the Meta headquarters in a fit of rage. The outcome of this is to put the reason back into a process that has become devoid of it in recent years. If you’re a content creator (winces in pain) who enjoys creating content, and the answers to the questions above reflect that, then great - off you go and check back in a few month’s time to see if that’s still the case. If you started out in photography because you wanted to capture the intricate emotions of pedestrians in the bustling heart of a city metropolis like New York, but find yourself making reels about how much a particular building looks like the set of a Wes Anderson movie, then it’s time to have a serious word with yourself and potentially hit the reset button. 

To use a concept discussed by the aforementioned master photographer Joel Meyerowitz, as much as we choose what people see within the frame of our photos, we also choose what they don’t see. The frame is our medium, our window to the way in which we view the world, our way of sharing a unique perspective and form of self-expression. The fact that this choice can be distorted or even adulterated by the opinion of thousands of strangers that we’ve never met before, or company bigwigs bent on maximizing screen time to pump shareholder value, is extremely unnerving. Use the questions above to regroup, refocus or restart, with the ultimate goal of aligning why you do photography with the photography you actually do. Maybe it’s not achievable immediately, maybe you want to dabble - I know I certainly do, maybe you want to build an audience and then experiment. Who knows. The point isn’t to have all the answers, the point is to develop an awareness of your art so that you’re doing it for the reasons you want to do it for, rather than blindly rushing in and finding yourself unhappy with your work years down the line. 

In part two of this article I’ll go into more detail about my own personal journey as a photographer and provide my own answers for the ‘Inner Why’ exercise listed above. Sign up to the email address or follow my socials for further updates on the second half.

Thanks for reading.

Blair

Introduction

So you’re ready to hit the streets of Hong Kong for some amazing street photography? Great! Let’s take a look at some recommendations for cameras and lenses that will enable you to to get the best compositions, subjects and scenery for the Hong Kong cityscape. 

Firstly, there are a couple of unique attributes to HK that affect how easy it is to get the shots that you want and can subsequently affect your choice of gear that you bring out with you. Let’s take a look at these in detail first so as to give you some context to the following recommendations.

Considerations for Street Photography in Hong Kong

1. Even though the pandemic is long behind us, a lot of people still wear masks in HK when in public. This may affect your choice of subjects in your photographs.

2. Summer weather is hot, humid and oppressive. I’d advise against carrying your entire lens selection on your back when you’re out and about.

3. Some people just don’t want photos taken and are very vocal about it. Zoom lenses usually avoid any confrontation but may also affect the compositions of your images. 

4. Hong Kong streets can be narrow and crowded. Smaller cameras and lenses are better for maneuvering and getting up close in these instances.

5. The bright neons and shop lights are good light sources, meaning that you don’t necessarily need super fast lenses to get the best out of your shots at night.

The Hong Kong Street Photography Gear Guide

Below I’ve listed out a number of possible gear combinations for you to consider to get the best out of your time on the streets. Depending on your goals and individual style, you can choose which one works best for you.

The Lightweight Solution

Lightweight setups mean leaving your lens collection at home, ditching the bulky zooms and settling for a compact, convenient solution in the form of a small camera and high quality prime lens. Interchangeable lens cameras are good, but will traditionally be more bulky than fixed lens mirrorless setups like the ones suggested below. Street photography is usually done with 28mm, 35mm or 50mm lenses to add context to your compositions, so finding a setup that incorporates these focal lengths is good practice.

Option 1: The Fuji X100V - For lovers of a classic look, the Fuji X100V sports a 23mm F2 lens and a 26.1MP APS-C X-Trans BSI CMOS 4 Sensor. It sports a tilting touchscreen, shoots up to 11 fps with a ISO range of 160-12800, and DCI/UHD 4K Video Recording at 30 fps. The JPEGs from this camera look very polished, imitating a classic film look. The fact that it’s small and compact also helps you go unnoticed, and it’s appearance as a classic, older style camera may help you avoid the attention of thieves - not that it’s a problem in Hong Kong.

Option 2: The Ricoh GR3 - Referred to as a ‘pocket powerhouse’, the Ricoh GR3 (or GRIII) is the latest iteration of Ricoh’s small, lightweight cameras. It offers a 28mm focal length with an aperture of F2.8 on a 24MP sensor - slower than the Fuji X100V, but still a good option. The 28mm focal length also brings it closer to traditional street photography focal lengths like 35mm. 

Option 3: The Leica Q2 or Leica Q3 -  For those that have money to burn, this is the most expensive, albeit one of the best options for compact solutions for photography setups. The Leica has a faster lens, with an aperture of F1.7, producing what is often referred to as the ‘Leica look’, and a whopping 47.3MP sensor, with 35mm, 50mm and 75mm crop modes that enable to you still get stunning detail even with a wider angle lens. Speaking of focal length, the FOV for this lens is 28mm (although it seems wider than most 28mm equivalents), giving you the option of capturing some incredible photos. It’s also built like a tank, with fantastic weather sealing that means that you’ll have no issue taking it out on rainy days. At over $5,000 USD it’s not a cheap purchase though. 

Option 4: The Sony A7C - More compact than other Sony mirrorless cameras the Sony A7C is overdue a refresh, but is still a great option for street photographers if paired with the right lens. The 35mm F1.4 GM or 24mm F1.4 GM are both great, but can be larger and more clunky than the other options mentioned. 

The Zoom Solution
Zoom lenses are a feasible way of getting close up shots without being too intrusive. The downside of zoom lenses is that you’re immediately more suspicious if you do get spotted (try comparing a Sony mirrorless camera to a Leica Q2) and it may elicit some negative responses. That being said, if you want versatility, the lens options below certainly offer that for your escapades. 

Ultimate versatility: The 24-70mm F2.8 - The lens's focal range from 24mm to 70mm allows you to capture a wide range of shots, from sweeping cityscapes to close-up portraits of people and details. This versatility is especially useful in Hong Kong, where the city's crowded and dynamic streets can change quickly and unexpectedly. Depending on which brand you go for, there are some relatively light options that won’t be too cumbersome if you choose to carry them around the whole day.

Keeping your distance: The 70-200mm F2.8 -  A 70-200mm F2.8 lens can also be a valuable tool for capturing the city's unique atmosphere. The lens's longer focal length allows photographers to capture more distant subjects and details, making it ideal for capturing candid shots of people and street scenes from a distance. The lens's fast F2.8 aperture also allows for beautiful bokeh and shallow depth of field, which can help to isolate subjects from the busy background of the city. Additionally, the 70-200mm F2.8 lens is often used by street photographers to capture Hong Kong's iconic skyline from a distance, creating stunning images that showcase the city's architecture and atmosphere. Overall, while a 70-200mm F2.8 lens may not be as versatile as a 24-70mm F2.8, it can still be a valuable tool for capturing the energy and diversity of Hong Kong's streets.

What do you think about the recommendations above? Is there any particular lens or camera combination that you’d recommend? Let me know in the comments.

If you’re looking for some quick tips and tricks to make sure you’re ready for street photography in Hong Kong, look no further. In this post I’ve collected 10 tips from my personal experience of shooting street scenes in Hong Kong, including some HK specific ones that you may not have considered yet. Hong Kong is recovering well from the pandemic and the street photography scene is now reflecting that, with the city reclaiming its place as one of the best for street photography. If you’re planning a trip out here, take a look at the tips below and make sure you’re prepared, so you can spend all the time you need comfortably getting epic street images. 

Summary:

1. Keep it light. Work with a convenient setup to keep mobile.

2. Expect to be waved away or even yelled at.

3. Plan breaks to cool down during summer. 

4. Trams are good for some shots, but are generally quite slow.

5. Don’t forget the back alleys.

6. Sunrise & sunset offer the best light.

7. Neons are disappearing, but nights are still great for exploring.

8. Allow for extra time to fish.

9. Be aware of superstitions.

10. Look out for local highlights.

Tips & Tricks for Hong Kong Street Photography

Keep it light. Work with a convenient setup to keep mobile.

Hong Kong can get extremely hot and humid during the summer months. For the sake of your health and your gear, I’d recommend using a relatively compact set up when you’re out on the streets during the day. The city is very accessible by walking, and it’s likely that you’ll spend hours roaming the streets looking for your perfect composition, so it makes sense to keep it light. I’d recommend something like a Sony A7C, a Fuji X100V or a Leica Q2 so that you don’t find yourself sweating from carrying multiple lenses or a bulky set up. If you don’t have a smaller camera, a single 35mm or 50mm lens should suit nicely.

Expect waving, swearing or yelling.

No matter how friendly you are, some people don’t want to be photographed. In Hong Kong, it’s normal to receive a frosty reception when snapping street shots, from a dismissive wave, to a head shake, to…something a little more vocal. If that does happen don’t be alarmed, put your camera down, smile or nod and walk away.

Plan breaks to cool down.

It can get humid and sticky, even during the evenings. I suggest that you plan a cafe or restaurant stop before you head out so you know where you can rest and get a break in an air-conned environment. This will also let your gear and batteries cool down as well. If you do need refreshments or a cold drink, Hong Kong has 7-11s or Circle Ks dotted around the neighbourhoods for you to get refreshments.

Trams can be slow.

I love using the trams to get around as they offer a unique perspective from the heart of the city. That being said, they can be extremely slow if you’re actually using them to get from A to B, and in many cases the MTR or a cab can be more efficient. You’ll also need a 24-70mm or 70-200mm to get more subject-specific shots, otherwise you’re stuck with wide-angle perspectives from higher up.

Don’t forget the back alleys.

So many hidden treasures are hidden in the back alleys of various neighbourhoods. Be sure to divert some of your attention to them, looking into each one as you walk past. If you do choose to venture down them, be aware that they can often be dirty and smelly, it’s best to watch where you step and use a torch if you’re out at night. Despite these small flaws, the alleyways in Hong Kong are home to some of the most interesting people, compositions and lighting.

Sunrise and sunset are the best times to shoot.

A no brainer, but worth repeating. Like New York, the density of the buildings means that the sunlight looks best at specific times of day and at different times during the year. Use an app to check the sunset direction and understand which roads might get the best light during the morning or afternoon.

Neons are disappearing, but night shots are still worth it.

I’ve spoken about this in my articles before and often lament the destruction of Hong Kong’s night photography environment. Despite that, the stalls, street lights, fruit shops, taxis, and signs still offer ample material for interesting photographs. Don’t expect that a lot of the signs that you’ve read about online to still be there, so plan to capture other scenes to make the night shots worth it.

Allow extra time to fish.

Fishing (waiting in one spot until you get the composition you want) definitely works. With one of the highest population densities in the world, there are all kinds of people of all demographics to step into your compositions. This still requires patience and extra time to wait around, so be sure that you’ve factored that into your schedule.

Be aware of superstitions.

Something specific to parts of Asia is that there are certain superstitions that you should be aware of when taking street photos. With Hong Kong, it’s usually customs or places to do with death or honoring ancestors that will be off limits. The Ghost Festival in August sees a lot of people take to the streets to burn paper gifts for their ancestors. It’s not advised to go around taking photos of this though, as there is a superstition that the souls of the dead relatives will be caught in the photos. Coffin shops or undertakers are also off limits for the same reason.

Look out for the local highlights.

Hong Kong is one of the best street photography destinations for a number of reasons. The sheer amount of activity and number of people means that you’ll never be short of material to capture. Try to get the right local elements to your photos to act as ‘locational identifiers’. This can be street signs, trams, taxis, a certain type of stall or activity. Work them in to your photos to capture a true, accurate representation of Hong Kong as a city.

Thanks for reading. If you think there are any other things that street photographers need to be aware of when shooting in Hong Kong, please send me a message and let me know. I’d love to hear from you.

If you’re looking for some unique images of Hong Kong to put up on your wall, you’ve come to the right place. After spending the past four to five years taking photographs of this magical city, I’ve been pretty lucky to capture some irreplaceable memories and capture them on camera. Long-gone neon signs, epic seas of clouds, stunning sunsets, towering skyscrapers - I’ve endeavored to work with what that city I live in has to offer to create one-of-a-kind images with a unique style to offer in my print store. Whether for an office, living room, bedroom or cafe, these prints make beautiful wall art, showcasing the very best of Hong Kong. They are a culmination of years of work, of early mornings and false starts. Numerous cups of coffee and hours of post processing have been poured into these photographs, and nothing would make me happier than having one hanging on your wall. For stunning photos of Hong Kong, I’ve got you covered. 

In this article I’d like to go a bit deeper into my selection of Hong Kong images and explain why they are some of my favourite. To browse more images of HK, including the HK skyline and architecture, visit my print store. All of these images are limited edition and will be discontinued after the run is complete. Without further ado, here are my top 8 images of Hong Kong.

Top Images of Hong Kong:

As We Ascend - Aerial Image

Taken on a beautiful morning in Hong Kong, ‘As We Ascend’ is a stunning cityscape image showing Hong Kong architecture as you’ve never seen before. This aerial photograph was captured during sea of clouds season using a drone, and is the outcome of when perfect lighting and perfect conditions combine. This print looks great in landscape format.

The North Point Tram - Street Image

As featured on Beyond Visuals, this image is an epic street shot taken at Cheung Yeung Street market in North Point. With the rain, umbrellas, tram and market stalls, this classic image shows Hong Kong at its best - a flurry of activity at a busy market. The gloomy atmosphere and editing style also serve to showcase the people at the side of the image and the reflection of the light from the tram as it shuttles through the crowd.

The Bamboo Ballet - Aerial Image

Bamboo scaffolding is still widely used in Hong Kong as an alternative to metal scaffolding. In the image ‘Bamboo Ballet’ several builders rest on the scaffolding and pass individual pieces of the bamboo back and forth between each other. Despite the angle, this shot is actually an aerial image taken around 30 floors up.

Lord of the Rings Tribute - Aerial Image

Also available through the Beyond Visuals website. A product of a clear sunset, good timing and positioning, this image is a call back to the eye of Sauron in the popular Lord of the Rings series. Above the iconic IFC building, the glowing sun sends out bright rays, illuminating the megastructures of Hong Kong before sunset arrives.

Rain on the Parade - Street Image

No one really knows how long the neon signs of Mong Kok will be around for. With many of them disappearing, it’s likely that these images will be all that are left of the once famous signs that shone throughout the streets on Kowloon side. In this particular photograph, several pedestrians holding umbrellas walk under this purple neon light, with the light bouncing off the wet tarmac below.

The Long Shadow - Street Image

Many cite popular Hong Kong photographer Fan Ho as a source of inspiration. In this street photography image taken on a slightly hazy afternoon, I’ve channeled my inner Fan Ho to capture the long shadow of a pedestrian as he descends down the stairs of a street in Central, HK. Due to the position of the sun at that time of day, the shadow of the man is extended down the entire width of the stairs.

Sweeping Cloud - Aerial Image

A dark and moody take on a windy afternoon in Hong Kong. From a slightly lower angle, you can see the way that the cloud and bright signs interact, producing a diffused, cyberpunk effect. This image looks great hung on a bright wall that helps it to stand out.

Time to STOP - Street Image

This image has a special place in my heart. Many people visit this winding road in Sai Ying Pun to take shots of overpass that weaves its way through the tightly packed buildings. On my visit there I was lucky enough to bump into a resident of one of the neighbouring buildings who kindly invited me up to their balcony to take this unique angle of the overpass. Check out the image on Beyond Visuals.

That’s it for this article. Thanks for reading and keep an eye out for more recent updates as I refresh my top best photos of Hong Kong in the future.

With the rise of AI image generation platforms like Midjourney, Stable Diffusion and Adobe Firefly the photography space has been actively debating the way that these kinds of services, and AI in general, will impact the future of photography and the way that we create and edit images. Questions abound - namely as a result of fear of the unknown. Will AI replace photography? How will AI affect the way we take photos? Will photographers lose their jobs? How will brands use AI instead of photography?

In this article I’m going to do my best to offer up some of the answers to these questions and analyze the ways that photographers can either embrace, or reject, the intersection of AI and photography. 

Fear of the New

It’s worth noting that whenever a new technological development is unveiled, there are always two distinct camps at very opposite ends of the spectrum: the early adopters and the purists. The early adopters are experimental, fast moving and eager to explore - they jump at the chance to use new technologies to enhance their workflow and potentially benefit from increased efficiency or productivity. The purists, on the other hand, view the new technology as an infringement on the art, potentially destroying an almost ‘sacred’ way of attaining results that they have no doubt spent a considerable amount of time perfecting. Outside of the early adopters and the purists, everyone else falls in somewhere on the spectrum, usually shifting to an adopter or a purist after understanding more about the applications, usage and potential of the technology. This process then drives what is considered ‘mainstream adoption’.

With photographers, we’ve seen this cycle repeat itself numerous times. The invention and improvement of autofocus (a form of AI technology) from the 1970s led to many traditionalists claiming that ‘real photography’ was the kind that only used manual focus. Fast forward to today and autofocus has evolved to scary levels of accuracy, with cameras like the A7R5 containing a Bionz XR processor that uses complex algorithms to focus more accurately. As this technology has become more accepted, the number of purists and traditionalists has reduced, and the definition of ‘photographer’ has once again shifted to incorporate those who use cameras with autofocus. 

This repeated trend gives us a pretty solid idea of what to expect as far as the use of both AI in cameras and AI photo generation and editing is concerned. It allows us to speculate a bit more accurately about the way that photographers will either gravitate towards or reject applications of AI in their work. Let’s dive into that next and discuss the ways that photographers can incorporate the use of AI into their work and, if they choose to reject it, how they can carve out a niche for themselves by remaining a ‘traditionalist’. 

Application 1: AI and the Evolution of Camera Technology

As discussed in the previous section, if you’re a photographer using new technologies like autofocus or eye tracking, but regularly criticize the applications of AI in other areas of the photography industry, there is an inherent level of hypocrisy that can only be avoided by further explaining your stance. These applications are a form of ANI (artificial narrow intelligence) - they use algorithms to perform specific tasks that produce certain results. WIth eye tracking it’s the result of image recognition and algorithmic training to ensure that when your camera is pointed at someone, it knows what an eye looks like and can help you to lock focus time and time again. 

With this in mind, one key application of AI is in the development of camera software. As accuracy and speed of functionality improves, AI will be used to help photographers achieve better, more accurate results across all types of photography.Imagine shooting a sports game and instead of an 80% focus hit rate, you get 95% of photos in perfect focus, or being able to get perfect focus stacking based on focal length and subject type. For wildlife photographers, image being able to capture perfect images of a bird in flight and being able to rest assured that you’ve nailed focus every time. Whilst the applications aren’t necessarily endless (and have to be implemented carefully) they will enable you to rely more on software to get desired results.

Application 2: AI and the evolution of photo editing

Taking cameras out of the equation, the evolution of photo editing software in recent years has also brought about increased efficiencies for photography workflows. Smart selection tools in Photoshop and Lightroom - powered by AI algorithms - shorten the amount of time that photographers spend editing their photos. In the past photographers would have to spend a considerable amount of time selecting the subjects or certain areas of their images. Now, with a few clicks you can identify what your subject is, break it up into specific sections, and then edit each of these sections separately. The introduction of things like neural filters in Photoshop also take the AI applications to the next level, allowing you to apply specific looks or even change the season that your photograph was taken in. 

As with tools like ChatGPT, it doesn’t necessarily come down to AI replacing jobs or making photographers obsolete, in cases such as the one above it’s more about photographers who embrace AI potentially replacing those who don’t. An example of this would be a wedding photographer who makes use of certain algorithms to identify subjects in photos and edit accordingly - they will be faster and likely more accurate than a photographer who doesn’t. What constitutes ‘pure’ photography and what role these platforms play in determining ‘purity’ is something we’ll examine a bit further in the final section. For now, the key message to take away from this section is that AI is and will continue to be used in editing software. Making use of the efficiencies offered will push the boundaries of what would normally be possible with photo editing, allowing for photographers to edit faster, more efficiently and (hopefully) more accurately than before. Whether or not it should be used is very much a subjective decision. 

Application 3: AI and the intersection of artificial images and photography

An increasing use of AI platforms like Midjourney and Stable Diffusion is that photographers can use their photos, feed them into an AI application and generate something new and unique or use elements from generated images in combination with their own photos. Recently, Adobe announced their version of an AI image generation platform called ‘Adobe Firefly’, with the capability to integrate into other Adobe products. The potential appeal of this approach is that you’re almost guaranteed something unique. I recall an NFT project called ‘The Metascapes’ that used the photographs of several popular landscape photographers to generate completely new images, with each one being one of a kind. 

I think that there will most likely be more of this kind of embellishment in the future. The popularity of social media and NFTs means that there are subsets of photographers looking to create the ‘next big thing’, meaning some more experimentation with AI in an effort to build their own niche of photography intersecting AI. I’m not entirely against this - art has often benefited from the introduction of new mediums of expression and creativity and, if viewed in this way, it’s certainly possible to understand how an intersection of these applications can produce something new and unique.

Application 4: AI and the replacement of photography

Let’s get into the nitty gritty. Midjourney V5 has been recently announced and the level of detail in the photorealistic imagery that it can create has certainly set some people on edge. That plus the fact that there was a recent photography competition where an AI image took the top spot has meant that there is a certain amount of fear in the community. In another recent story, a photographer recently admitted that images posted on IG were actually AI generated - a fact that didn’t come as a surprise to many and yet still managed to shock a few people. With these stories hitting the media more and more often, many photographers pose the same question that those in other industries do when faced with the prospect of a machine taking over their jobs: Will AI replace me? 

There’s no easy way to answer this and, to avoid giving a sweeping response I think it’s best to break it down into smaller parts. Firstly, brands and corporations may find it cheaper and easier (in future) to use AI images over stock photography - this way they can generate unique images in line with their branding that they can be sure won’t infringe on any copyright. To get to this point, AI image generation platforms will have to evolve to a point where they’re producing consistent, high quality images in a process that can be easily replicated and repeated. I wouldn’t be surprised if certain assets (generic style or stock images) will be entirely replaced in future.

For things like product photography, it’s less easily replaced by AI. Certain brands want photos of their products in use, with a particular sense of realism that won’t be replicable through AI generation, at least not in the short term. For this reason it’s likely that product photography will continue to something that is done very much offline, then touched up using the aforementioned editing tools (and AI functionality) to improve.

Application 5: AI and the development of ‘traditional’ photography

The final piece of this AI puzzle is: what happens to those that just want to take photos and use more traditional means to do so? I think that there will always be a space for this, but there will be a certain shift in emphasis to highlight the process and story behind the photos mostly brought about by a greater need to confirm realism. Trends like ‘travel photography’ could see a dip in popularity as incredible sunrises over beautiful mountain ranges are generated at a click of a button, and more people could choose to either document specific people or places or, in the very least, document more of their journey and process behind getting their photos. In either case, there is an inherent need to show people that what is being created can’t be done by an algorithm and is, in fact, a very real part of the world we live in.

That means that photographers who tell stories with their photos serve to benefit the most, especially when they detail real people, events, and occurrences. Adding context (where possible) to street photography or portrait photography could help ground your work in reality and further protect your portfolio from being replaced by a machine. Industries like wedding and event photography should remain relatively untouched. 

Conclusion  

Thank you for reading my thoughts on how AI will change the way that photographers will work. Ultimately we’re still at an early stage in the technological development of AI but, as it continues to be used in the photography workflow, it’s likely that this discussion will crop up more often. In that case, I’ll likely revisit this topic on a regular basis to see how my predictions above have held up.

There are a variety of spots for street photography in Hong Kong. Here are the highlights:

• Mongkok, Tung Choi Street at night.

• Jordan, Temple Street.

• Sham Shui Po during the day.

• Lei Yue Mun at night.

• Tseung Kwan O on a weekday.

• Wanchai at night.

• North Point during the day.

Introduction

Despite the streets of Hong Kong undergoing massive changes in the past few years, it remains an incredible place for street photography. Whether you’re looking for popular ‘insta’ style spots or more organic, spontaneous street shots of everyday moments, you can find it all here. Hong Kong is a relatively small city in terms of area, but due to the sheer density of the buildings and people packed into it, it can be hard to know which districts are best for street snaps. In this article, I’ve summarized the best places for street photography in Hong Kong, including useful information like the best time of day to go, what there is to do there, what equipment I’d recommend, and what the best subjects are. Get the best out of your HK street photography by starting with the following locations:

Top Locations for Street Photography:

Location: Mongkok, Tung Choi St.

Time: Evening 

Subjects: Neons, Taxis, Pedestrians

Lenses: Wide (~24mm), Zoom (70 - 200mm)

With neon lights disappearing daily, it’s hard to find areas that still have these iconic staples of classic Hong Kong street photos. Fortunately, Mongkok still has clusters of bright signs that illuminate the streets and cast a wide, colored light on surrounding subjects. The corner of Tung Choi street still has some large red and purple neons that look particularly good in the early evening or in the rain. With the right timing and positioning you can capture a variety of subjects passing under them and mess around with the shadows, reflections, and positioning. Be sure to visit them soon as there is no knowing when they might suddenly disappear. 

Location: Jordan, Ladies Market

Time: Day or night

Subjects: Market stalls, vendors

Lenses: Zoom (24 - 70mm)

Another staple of Hong Kong photography. This market was unnaturally quiet during the pandemic and, with the demolition of the car park at the end of the street that provided an incredible vantage point, it was quieter than ever. Now that things have opened up the street is slowly coming back to life, once again making it a haven for photographers wanting to capture real moments. My advice is to walk down the center of the stalls once, then back down the sides to check out the small shops at the edges of the street. The large gate at the end of Temple Street is also a good focal point to capture passersby. If you have a bit more time on your hands, you can leave the MTR at Jordan station and walk in the direction of Sham Shui Po - it should take you about 30 - 40 minutes to walk comfortably between the stations, allowing time for you to pause and take in the sights.

Location: Sham Shui Po

Time: Day or night

Subjects: Market stalls, vendors

Lenses: Zoom (24 - 70mm)

Similar to Temple Street, the stalls of the markets just outside Sham Shui Po MTR station offer some interesting activity worth exploring. Get here during the day to capture the sunlight hitting the stalls for some interesting shadowplay, or during the evening as the lights of the stalls switch on and illuminate the vendors that run them. Keep in mind that there are numerous roads and back alleys to explore, although some of the lighting can be poor and there can be a lot of rubbish to look out for. Certain stalls have a great number of wares hanging up, providing some great context or background for your photograph. 

Location: Lei Yue Mun

Time: Night

Subject: Neons, fishermen, restaurants

Lenses: Wide (12 - 24mm), Zoom (24 - 70mm)

To get to Lei Yue Mun, you’ll need to take the MTR to Yau Tong and walk about 15 minutes to get to the village. This is a popular spot for diners and shoppers, offering some of the freshest seafood in Hong Kong - this means that it’s always busy during the night and there is a constant source of interesting subjects. Before you get to these restaurants though, you should spot the restaurant neons from the entrance, with the boats providing a good foreground for your shots. Check out the fruit stalls and other shops along the road that lead to the restaurants and make use of the classic red lights in your photos.    

Location: Tseung Kwan O

Time: Day

Subject: Mechanics, Car repair stalls, Narrow roads

Lenses: Zoom (24 - 70mm)

More of an undiscovered treasure than the other locations, Tseung Kwan O is a veritable trove of opportunities. Unlike the other places on this list, TKO is better to visit during the week as the numerous car shops are open during these times. You’ll need to pack a zoom lens so that you can get closer to subjects in the stores and you’ll need to keep an eye out for mahjong games, lunch breaks and people taking naps. My recommendation is to walk back and forth along the rows of streets with your camera at the ready, take your time and keep your eyes peeled. 

Location: Wan Chai

Time: Night

Subject: Pedestrians, Neons, Trams, Taxis

Lenses: Zoom (24 - 70mm)

If you’re looking for somewhere a bit closer to Central, Wan Chai is a good option. Whilst it has something of a ‘seedy’ reputation thanks to the many bars and restaurants located there, the streets are still worthy of a walk around. Some smaller shop lights are still up and the atmosphere is great. Be sure to venture to the backroads so that you can get a wider variety of views, angles and surroundings. 

Location: North Point

Time: Day or Night

Subject: Market, Tram, Stalls

Lenses: 24mm, Zoom (70 - 200mm)

One of the best streets for photography in Hong Kong (in my opinion) is the Chun Yeung Street market. This road has the tramway bisecting it, meaning that on busy days you get the flurry of shoppers with the tram cutting through the crowds. Take a wide angle if you want to include some of the stores, or use a zoom to get the compression with the buildings behind the tram. Be sure to watch your step, and make your way to the end of the road to ensure you have enough time to catch the trams. If you miss one, don’t worry - they usually come once every 5 minutes. 

Hopefully you found this article useful. If you have any questions or comments, or would like to share your shots, please get in touch or follow me on my instagram account (blairsugarman1).

• Use light sources other than neons for street photography.

• Masks can be used to your advantage when photographing people.

• Observe and capture seemingly insignificant moments and interactions.

• Adjust shutter speed and ISO according to lighting conditions.

• Utilize the city's architecture for leading lines, frames, and backgrounds.

• Use public transport to get around and capture a variety of locations.

• Be selective with the lenses you bring, based on the time of day and the desired style.

• Explore the city without any particular motive to find amazing shots.

• Different weather conditions can yield different results.

• Don't forget to be mindful of sun direction and shadows when photographing during the day.

Introduction

Having lived in a certain city for a prolonged period of time, we often become immune to the characteristics and qualities of our surroundings that make the place we live in so unique. Street photography is one of the ways to keep the allure of your chosen destination very much alive by showing you key moments and interactions that a specific place is built on. Through these photos, you are inviting the viewer to share in your moment of observation, weaving together the elements of a particular location and event into a largely subjective narrative open to interpretation. Each one of these images can tell a story, and, if you've even been to Hong Kong, you'll know that the streets here are a vast anthology of stories constantly unfolding. 

Since opening up after the pandemic, the Hong Kong government is doing everything in their power to boost tourism to the city, including rolling out free tickets and inviting popular influencers to come and document city life. Despite still being a fantastic city for street photography, Hong Kong is a very different place to the bustling hub it was before the pandemic, and that means if you’re an avid photographer looking to capture the city in it’s best light, there are some useful tips to make sure you can still get the best out of your visit. In this guide, I’ll explore how you can make the best of street photography in Hong Kong to create unique, stunning images.

Tips & Tricks for better street photography in Hong Kong

Tip 1: Neons are going, going gone but you can still make use of other light sources. 

Hong Kong used to be known for elaborate neon signs that hung across the roads, advertising restaurants, tailors, wedding services and more. Unfortunately, following the introduction of new rules, these beautiful signs are now being removed one by one, stripping the city of its heritage and robbing photographers of some truly spectacular photo opportunities. Despite this change there are still plenty of other ways to use the light sources of the city in your photos -  shop lights and market stalls offer interesting combinations of coloured light that illuminate street scenes in different ways during the evening. Puddles and car roofs make for perfect sources of reflection that can add special touches to your photo. During the day be mindful of the sun direction and shadows cast by the buildings - these can essentially make or break your photo, and it's best to be wary of where the sun will be at specific times of the day.

Tip 2: Observe the moments that often go unnoticed.

A quick market transaction, a bus driver waiting for passengers, a security guard snoozing in the shade, a lady standing out in the rain smoking a cigarette - all of these are moments that most people miss completely. As street photography is largely about the art of observation, take note as to all of the seemingly insignificant instances and interactions going on around you and try to capture them where possible. For that Hong Kong 'zeitgeist', add the elements we discussed previously - a transaction at a local market stall, a person climbing onto a tram, a bus driver (on one of the small red buses) waiting for passengers.  All of these things combined will help make your photos destination-specific and thought provoking.

Tip 3: Be aware of your shutter speed.

Especially at night! For all of the illuminated market stalls and shop fronts, there are plenty of poorly lit roads and back alleys. You'll need to adjust your shutter speed and ISO accordingly and when doing so be aware of your own ability to hold the camera steady at slightly slower shutter speeds. Standing in the middle of the road or a crowd might make this particularly difficult, so consider the balance of settings needed to get the best result.

Tip 4: Use the buildings here to your advantage.

The architecture here is especially prominent and can fulfil multiple functions in your street photography depending on what lens you're using and what area you're exploring. For slightly wider shots, narrow alleyways from the towering structures around the city can serve as leading lines, frames and backgrounds to your photos. When composing your photo be aware of cutting off a sign or building that could add an extra element to your shot so don't forget to look up when you're walking around with your camera. 

Take note of light and shadows cast by the buildings - if you're in the central district during sunset or sunrise, the light you capture and how you capture it are going to be heavily influenced by the surrounding office blocks and apartments. 

Tip 5: Take public transport - a lot. 

The trams here are not only a convenient way of getting around, they're also an incredible way to get photos of a variety of locations without ever getting off. The windows on the trams usually roll down, and with a variety of lenses you can get different results. Don't forget to use the windows and seating of the trams and buses to your advantage - they make for great frames and provide context for passenger interactions taking place on the vehicle itself. 

Tip 6: Don't be afraid to explore. 

When you do get off the public transport, walking around without any particular motive can still yield amazing street shots. When you need to find your way back you can use Google maps (be wary, sometimes Google maps takes a bit of time to show the right location/direction in HK) to find your way to the nearest MTR station, or grab a taxi back to your hotel. If you’re looking for some locations a bit further off the beaten path, I’ve put together a list of lesser known hidden gems that should give you some authentic shots.

Tip 7: Don't overload on lenses. 

You're likely to be walking - a lot, so be selective with which lenses you do bring. For street photography at night, we recommend a relatively fast lens (F1.2 - 1.8) to ensure that you don't need to crank up the ISO or drastically lower the shutter speed to get good results. Using a faster lens can also help to draw attention to the subject and, with the neon signs in Hong Kong, get some beautiful bokeh if that's what you're looking for. If you don't have a faster lens, an F2.8 aperture will also work well, but remember to adjust your settings accordingly - especially in poorly lit situations. If you're venturing out during the day, we recommend a versatile zoom lens, like a 24-105mm F4 or a 24-70mm F2.8. These kinds of lenses give you the option of wider and narrower FOVs to vary your style and points of focus. Check out my guide on gear selection for shooting in Hong Kong here.

Tip 8: Get out there - rain or shine.

Different weather yields different results - simple as that. Don't be put off by bad weather, use it to your advantage. In HK, it's all about reflections and umbrellas - use the distinctive local backdrops to create some truly stunning shots. 

Tip 9: Be respectful.

As with most places, certain people don't want to be photographed. Hong Kong, unlike other areas of South East Asia, doesn't have any overt superstitions or sentiments about being photographed - usually the main issue is privacy. If someone is unhappy being photographed it's best to just move on. You can also use a longer focal length to get certain shots without invading space or privacy, but still, it's best to be mindful and considerate.

Tip 10: Take your time. 

Patience is a virtue, and that goes doubly for street photography. Sometimes you'll have to line up your shot and wait for the perfect moment for a considerable amount of time before it actually manifests. In Hong Kong there is a steady stream of people in a lot of the most popular locations, so it's likely that you'll be waiting for crowds to disperse more often than you will be waiting for people to turn up. Just take a deep breath and enjoy being in the moment.

Thanks for reading. If you have any questions or want to know more about street photography in Hong Kong, feel free to get in touch.